Notable History and Cemetery Spots in Humphreys County

As all good history students know, Tennessee was an instrumental state in the American Civil War. Some of the earliest grand-scale battles of the war were fought in Tennessee, on through 1864, some right within the area of Humphreys County. As a state that would be considered below the Mason Dixon line, had it had been extended west of Pennsylvania, it is interesting to note that Tennessee would have been considered a southern state. However, the whole state wasn’t part of the Confederacy. The eastern half actually fought with the Union to stay united. For those who love to visit and relive history, there’s plenty in Humphreys County to get your imagination rolling about what life might have been like in Tennessee long ago.

Maybe you enjoy history, but the Civil War era is not your favorite time frame. No need to worry. You’ll be sure to find monuments and markers for many other historical time periods as well. Whether you prefer to visit cemeteries to learn about the past or would rather walk through a museum, Humphreys County has you covered. Just look at all the different experiences you’ll find from so many different time periods of the past.

Civil War Markers

Battle of Johnsonville

Toward the end of the Civil War, in late 1864, the Johnsonville river port on the Tennessee River was destroyed by the Confederate Army. This battle was a Union loss, as many boats and supplies were destroyed under the command of Cavalry Commander Major General Nathan Bedford Forrest, surprisingly defeating the Union’s naval force. The raid lasted 23 days, practically annihilating Union logistics in the area. Despite the losses, Major General George H. Thomas from Nashville was still able to follow the battle with a Union win in the Franklin Nashville Campaign, preventing Lieutenant General John Bell Hood from successfully invading Tennessee.

The memorial state marker commemorating that which was lost can be found at the intersection of Thompson St. and Mill St. in Waverly, the Humphreys County seat.

Fort Hill and Nolan House

Fort Hill was the headquarters of the 13th U.S. Colored Troops (USCT). Their mission was to defend the military-dedicated railroad that ran along the Tennessee River. The railroad was built in 1863 by a troop of almost a thousand newly recruited former slaves organized by Union Gen. Alvan C. Gillem. The troop was assisted by other USCT units from Iowa and Kansas. When the railroad was finished, they moved on to build Fort Hill there in Waverly. In 1864, this troop fought in nearby Nashville in the Battle of Nashville. As the troop was based in Waverly, this is where Lt. James Nicholas Nolan of the 1st Kansas Battery went when he returned from battle. After the war, he built a house on the hill near the fort and eventually became the mayor of Waverly. The Nolan House has been maintained over the years and was even added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. It served as a bed and breakfast for several years, until it was recently sold to a private buyer. Fort Hill is now the Humphreys County Museum and Civil War Fort and is still open for business.

Old Johnsonville

Named for Andrew Johnson (governor of TN from 1862–1865), this town was originally a steamboat landing. Once the Civil War began, Old Johnsonville became a major supply stop off the Nashville and Northwestern Railroad in 1864. The Confederate campaign destroyed the depot a few months later, also annihilating Union defense of the railroad. After the war, the river post became a river-rail transfer point and helped the city to grow and prosper for almost four decades. At that point, a flood caused its prosperity to cease, and by 1945, the town was no more. However, a historical marker for Old Johnsonville exists and can be found just inside the Johnsonville State Historic Park.

Fort Waverly & The Humphreys County and Civil War Museum

To really learn all you can about Humphreys County’s place in the Civil War, you won’t want to miss a visit to the Civil War Museum. The museum adjoins Fort Waverly, another important Tennessee stronghold designed to protect the railroad that provided Union soldiers with needed supplies.

One great feature of the museum is that it doesn’t just center around the Civil War but is an all-inclusive historical museum for the whole county. Artifacts you’ll find that are not related to the Civil War include ancient Native American relics and other items reflecting the area’s history.

Other Historical Sites

Waverly Disaster

The town of Waverly suffered a terrible blow that brought the Humphreys County Seat national attention. In 1978, a mere two days after a train from Louisville and Nashville wrecked, workers were still cleaning up a huge amount of propane fuel from the accident when one of the derailed tanker cars exploded. The explosion led to a fire, sadly killing sixteen people and injuring more than two hundred. A good deal of the older section of Waverly was destroyed in the fire, wiping out homes and businesses alike and costing millions of dollars in damage. A marker is placed at the site as a memorial, which is located on E. Railroad St.

St. Patrick Church and School

Found in McEwen, a small log church was built in 1849 by Father Aloysius Orengo to provide a home for Irish immigrants, who were working furnaces and herding sheep. In 1855, the church was moved and became the first school in Humphreys County. The school needed a bell, so the school’s founder established the annual Irish picnic to raise funds. Unfortunately, the church was destroyed during the Civil War, but it was later reconstructed, with new buildings going up in 1877 and in 1925. The church that now stands on St. Patrick Street was dedicated in 1949.

Link Farm State Archaeological Area

History lovers who want to go way back in time, before the Americas were even colonized by Europeans, will appreciate this area of Humphreys County dating back possibly to 1100 A.D. The area is a mound complex that represents where the Duck River and Buffalo River converged at one point. A set of statues was erected on the site in 1895, shortly after the area was discovered.

Civil War Days

Speaking of going back in time, give the kids a taste of what it was like during the Civil War during the Civil War Days held at Johnsonville State Park each year. Hailed as a “living history event”, this free event includes history presenters, live musical performances, weaponry demonstrations and period encampments complete with artillery, infantry, and civilian demonstrations. If that’s not enough, the booming cannons should kick the “bored” right out of your kids!